When my wife and I look back to all our trips in Australia, one repeatedly comes to mind as our ultimate destination: Red Bluff in WA, an off-grid camper’s dream—not to mention every surfer’s, fisher’s and beach lover’s.
Here’s your complete guide to the best destination on the Quobba Coast, a vast stretch of WA coast with Red Bluff as its crown jewel.
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Where is Red Bluff in Australia?
Red Bluff is 1,033km north of Perth, an 11-hour drive getting you to the remote coastal area from WA’s capital city.
The Bluff’s closest town is Carnarvon (100kms away), lying at the mouth of the Gascoyne River and being the major refuelling and restocking spot for anyone visiting Red Bluff and the Quobba Coast.
On a map, you’ll find Red Bluff in a locale called MacLeod, but the general region is known as either the Quobba Coast or simply Gnaraloo (which both the surf spot and campground north of the Bluff is named after).
The reason I say all this is so you don’t confuse this Red Bluff with Red Bluff Beach, situated further south in Kalbarri National Park.
What’s there to do at Red Bluff?
Okay, here’s the fun part. Once you’re all set up, you have near endless things to do in Red Bluff.
1. Swim or Snorkel at Red Bluff
Great news for non-surfers: you can swim at Red Bluff, with so many beautiful beaches accessible on foot from the campground or by a fun drive over the sand dunes to the many stretches of coast.
The beach in front of Red Bluff campground admittedly isn’t the greatest for a simple dip. The dumpers and the currents are powerful, but you’ll find better sections for swimming on the northern part of the horseshoe bay. Even further north, accessible via a long trek or a shorter four-wheel drive journey, are several impeccable snorkelling and swimming spots.
2. Enjoy world-class surf
If you’re looking for uncrowded waves, several extraordinary spots around Red Bluff await.
With a 4WD, you have the choice of several awesome breaks. Just take the main road out of the campground and hang a left when the opportunity strikes. Over the dunes are multiple tracks to the beach, where a lineup of Hilux’s, Prado’s and Pajero’s facing the ocean will give away the best breaks of the day.
Right in front of the campground is Red Bluff mains, a point break that serves up large swell throughout peak season. The Bluff works best on mid-tide. Take care on your first journey into the water: you’ll need to navigate the cliffs and plenty of jagged rock (or brave a very long paddle from the shore).
Other than that, you have Gnaraloo station north of Red Bluff. This is the home of Tombstones (or Tombies), and serves a profoundly good left-hander that’ll burn your legs better than any PT session. Tombstones works best on a mid- to high-tide.
The best time to surf is between May and August, when the larger south-southwest swells pull in. With pretty modest crowds through the peak months, you can expect the odd barrel without much of a fight.
Always respect the crew out there.
3. Go fishing at Red Bluff
Every direction along the Quobba coast presents unreal beach and rock fishing. Between Red Bluff and Quobba Station to the south, there are several awesome mapped spots that’ll produce Spanish Mackeral, Longtail Tuna and Yellowfin. Bottom fishing may get you reeling in Trevally, Pink Snapper or even Spangled Emperor.
Be safe on the rocks as the raw Indian Ocean serves up some solid swell on little notice.
As far as freediving goes, there are a few places to sneak into the water simply from the mouth of the campsite’s beach. You might be lucky to find some crayfish along the coast too.
4. Head 4WDing on the dunes
There’s nothing like getting the 4×4 firing on the sand at Red Bluff. A steep incline will get you into a bit of a sand playground. Follow your nose around the area to find some secluded spots on the coast or just thrash about and show off your 4WD skills to your mates.
If you’re a competent four-wheel driver, you could spend your entire day exploring the region. The Quobba Coast is perfect for a challenging 4WD adventure.
5. Enjoy a beachside massage
For a place so remote, with so few amenities, it’s a wonder there’s actually a day spa on the beach. And it’s a damn good one too.
While your loved one waits for you back on shore, they can get a great massage or facial from Tokota Beauty on the beach (tried, tested and approved by my lovely wife).
6. Have a sing and a slice at the Open Mic Night
At the same shack that acts as a general store during the day, turns it on on Friday nights. Incredible pizzas served on your beach wood table while local talent entertains you from the stage.
With a few drinks under her belt, my wife stitched me up by telling the host I was a muso. I walked to the stage chewing a slice of margarita pizza, then fumbled through the lyrics to Better Be Home Soon. Playing tunes to a singalong crowd under the stars, my backing band being the cool breeze and the crashing waves, will forever be remembered by this nostalgic boy.
Everything you need to know about camping at Red Bluff
If you’re making the 1,000km trek to Red Bluff campground—as many loyal visitors do—you’ll want a clear idea of what awaits you when you arrive.
Hint: There’s plenty.
We’d just come from Karijini National Park, our legs still sore from hiking Mount Bruce the day earlier. The campsites near Mount Bruce were phenomenally beautiful, so our expectations of what Red Bluff to offer were high—and completely satisfied.
Staying at Red Bluff campground
No bookings. Minimal amenities. Scattered sites claimed on a first-come, first-served basis. And if you run out of water, power, or fuel—well, that’s on you. And that is exactly what makes Red Bluff campground one of the most thrilling off-grid adventures on the Quobba Coast.
(Live in Perth and want to “practice” camping off-grid? Here are a few secluded camping spots near Perth you can check out this weekend.)
Red Bluff campground is sandwiched between two other excellent coastal destinations, with Quobba Station to its south (1 hour) and Gnaraloo Station to its north (30 mins).
When you roll in, you’ll be greeted by some of the friendliest campground staff in WA at the impressive house on the side of Red Bluff’s famous hill. One of the lovely folk will smile and give you guidance on the available spots with a sort of flick of the wrist. You’ll then get back in your warm driver’s seat and crawl your way through the sundrenched campers or empty campsites—their owners either in the surf or sand dunes, or wrestling a prized catch off their lines. You’ll look through the fly-splattered windscreen at what you think is the perfect spot.
When your travel buddy(ies) nod in approval, it’s simple to set up your camp gear on either the rocky ground or the grassy knolls—all because the view across the horse shoe bay at Red Bluff is simply stunning. You’ll drop a few of those jubilant f-bombs, probably shake your head in disbelief, while not sparing a single thought for those back home who aren’t standing at the edge of one of WA’s most impressive coastal adventure jaunts.
What amenities are there?
There are very few amenities at Red Bluff campground. Unless you’re staying in one of their glamping tents, you’ll need to bring all your own supplies (power included).
Drop toilets can be found scattered around the campground, from its highest points below the cliffs to beachside dunnies with a brilliant background soundtrack provided by the crashing waves and squawking seagulls.
The campsite office can provide firewood, depending on availability.
And there is a very small convenience store (looks like a beach shack) if you’re in absolute dire need of a barista-made coffee (excellent quality), milkshake or treat. They have surf and fishing essentials too. When we were at the Bluff, the owner came and went as he pleased (understandably!), with a regular visitor taking over the till when the owner was busy in conversation. Definitely our style of hospitality.
For surfboard dings, the aptly named “Ding Dude” can repair your board at a reasonable price.
Can I bring my dog?
Dogs are allowed at Red Bluff campground by arrangement only and must be kept to the northern end of the campground.
There were plenty of furry friends roaming around when we visited Red Bluf—including a couple of campground staff dogs chasing their owner on his four-wheeler—so it’s safe to say they’re welcome.
Is there any phone reception at the Bluff campsite?
It’s crucial to note that there’s no water, electricity or food available at the Red Bluff campground. And nor is any phone signal.
Luck does provide the very rare glimpse of cell reception. We were camped quite high up on the hill, and found one corner of our tent providing a single bar of reception at particular times of night. To get in touch with a client, I had to burn precious fuel reserves on an hour-and-a-half return trip on the corrugated Quobba-Gnaraloo Road… The life of a freelancer has its downsides.
Essential info before going to Red Bluff
Essential list of gear
- Tent, swag or camper trailer
- Drinking water for your entire stay (and some)
- Full tank of fuel (plus jerry can backup)
- Food and kitchen gear (gas stove, utensils, etc.)
- Deep cycle battery and solar panels
- 12V fridge
- Firewood (or cash to buy onsite)
- Cash (for firewood, spa, pizza)
- Spare tyre and air compressor
- First aid kit
- Lighting (headlamps, lanterns, solar lights)
Do you need a 4WD to get to Quobba coast?
You don’t need a 4WD to get to Red Bluff, but it is recommended. A 4WD ensures the safest journey from Carnarvon, as the dirt road to Red Bluff, Gnaraloo and Quobba Station is often sketchy.
Also, there’s simply so much more to see and do if you have a 4WD. The sand dunes are prime for 4x4ing, with plenty of tracks, berms and epic gradients to keep the heart rate sky-high.
Over the dunes, you’ll find secluded snorkelling spots, amazing lookouts and world class surf with only a few, very friendly crew out.
At Red Bluff, if you’re camping near the water, some sections will only allow for high clearance vehicles. With their pre-purchased firewood in hand, I gave some van dwellers a lift down to their non-fourby near the lip of the ocean. The German bloke had miraculously managed to get their van over some heavy potholes on the steep gradient and even admitted to me he had no idea how he’d get it back up the slippery, challenging track—they’re probably still there.
All in all, Red Bluff is certainly 2WD accessible, but you can’t go wrong arriving in a 4WD.
How do I get to Red Bluff?
Carnarvon is the Bluff’s closest town, with the only route from Carnarvon to Red Bluff via both Blowholes Road and Quobba-Gnaraloo Road, the latter being a long dirt road with plenty of corrugated sections.
Follow the signs out of Carnarvon on to Blowholes Road. After 50km, you’ll see a few tourists parked in a dirt carpark, watching water rocket into the air from the Quobba Blow Holes. Head north on the dirt road (Quobba-Gnaraloo Road), and 60-odd-kms of bumpy driving will see you head west on Red Bluff Road to the campground.
The entire journey from Carnarvon to the Bluff will take you over two hours, a lot more if you’re precious about bumps or your vehicle doesn’t handle them well.
The road to Red Bluff and the Quobba Coast is not sealed. Please take care on it. We encountered some boys standing aside their old Toyota Hilux, hands on hips and dumbfounded looks about their faces. I noticed a green P-plate in the smashed windshield—it looked like a lowercase D, given the vehicle was completely upturned.
Again, take care on the road to Red Bluff.
Also, make sure you check for road closures before you go. In the off-season months, between November and March, heavy rainfall contributes to the shutdown of Quobba-Gnaraloo Road.
Best time to go?
The best time to visit Red Bluff is between May and August. The winds, surfing and fishing conditions are at their best, and it’s ideal to spot whales during their migration period (sometimes only 50m from the beach). This is one of the many great effects of WA’s marine superhighway, the Leeuwin Current. Breaking it down for surfers and fishers:
- Fishing: The fishing is its best at Red Bluff between mid-April and July.
- Surfing: May to August are the best two surfing months in Red Bluff, with the winds and swell being the most consistent.
Off-grid exploring in Red Bluff
There you go, explorers. All the ins and outs of the Bluff. You can probably feel the off-shore wind in your hair and the sound of epic waves crashing on the cast shore. Crack a beer, wax up the board or rig up your lines, and be glad you came. You might never be back at Red Bluff or maybe you’ll make it an annual pilgrimage.
One thing’s for sure—once you’re there, you’ll never want to leave.
Looking for more epic destinations to check out in WA? Before you set up your tent, check out our explorer-written Adventure Guides for a tonne of inspiration!
